Monday, April 7, 2014

Having a Fit with a San Francisco Master Tailor

Quote du Jour
     He who works with his hands is a laborer. He who works with his hands and his
     head is a craftsmen. He who works with his hands and his head and his heart is
     an artist. ~
St. Francis of Assisi

Signatures of a master tailor: careful edge
stitching and slightly elastic hand-threaded
loops to guide bra straps, Every stitch has a
purpose, each one carefully done.

Return to an old hobby
After 20+ years, I'm sewing again, inspired by the wonderful wedding dress experience with my daughter! Here's the story.

We started in the wrong direction...
One year before her wedding, my daughter found "the dress" at a bridal store in another city. Measurements taken, the dress was ordered. 

..said eeks to a dress...
Six months later when it arrived, it was too short. Somehow, my daughter's 5' 11" height wasn't included in the measurements. The skirt didn't even touch the floor. We are so grateful that store refunded our money. However, by this time, the dress was no longer in production.

Phoning around, my daughter found that a San Francisco store, Novella Bridal, had a floor model sample that was very similar to her original choice. Provided it was long enough, and if the dress could be altered to fit my daughter's frame, she'd have a dress. Novella put the dress on hold.


...then navigated to a happy place
My daughter's wedding dress journey now took a happy turn into a world of very special clothing and highly skilled sewing. 

At the heart of the dress experience...
Carol Chu, who would manage the alterations of the dress, was a breath of fresh air. Easy to work with and highly skilled, we felt so lucky. Through the fitting process, I enjoyed seeing how the alterations were done, and learned a lot from Carol, she knows her craft!

...a Master Tailor
Fact-checking for this blog, I find that Carol Chu has been named one of San Francisco's best tailors for 2013. Read the article, 12 Master Tailors to Trust in San Francisco at this link, Alter Egos-12 Master Tailors to Trust. 
My daughter with Carol Chu, head of
alterations at Novella Bridal, in
San Francisco


Carol Chu, head of alterations at Novella Bridal, received training in fine sewing and tailoring as a young woman. Her specialty is becoming rare as mass produced clothing and stretch fabrics have become the global norm. 

What fun to join my daughter at her fitting appointments. Novella Bridal's location, next to San Francisco's Financial District, made it convenient to schedule appointments before work. 

We'd arrive just as Carol was unlocking the door to start her day. 
Part of the beauty of the dress is how the
lace at the hem seems to float on the floor.



Hem and ahah!
Four sizes too large, but it was long...with an inch to spare! Can you imagine how this dress would look...if it was too short?

Beyond Fit: Shaping
Taking a close look at both the design and my daughter's shape, Carol explained that it's important to understand what the designer wants to convey in a design. The design must be shaped to the wearer's body. 

Beyond Seams
To achieve the designer's vision, adjustments may be needed at various places around the body, not just at the side seams. Carol brought my daughter's dress to life.

The Construction
Deceptively simple, the dress is the sum total of many parts:
  • Multiple layers of fabric, this dress has 6...you can't alter only one layer
  • Each layer is a slightly different shade of ivory
  • Some layers have a slight pattern
  • Lace is intentionally placed to create a design throughout the garment
  • A wearer's favorite undergarments are incorporated for shape, comfort and ease in wearing - nothing stiff 
Design Changes
Changes made to the neckline, front and back, were re-edged with the lace.

A red tailor's chalk line marks the changes to to be made to create a
sweetheart neckline. Notice the hanging lace, which will be reattached.
Pieces of lace are strategically placed throughout the dress, and 

edging the neckline and hem, creating a special design.

  The back of the bodice will change to a V-shape.
In stitches...
Though not on a diet, my daughter kept losing weight. Carol advised her to get a bacon cheeseburger...which she did!


My daughter's smile says it all. Finally the dress! 
Her dad takes this photo while Carol determines
where the train will connect to the dress for 
dancing!
I can't remember how many fittings there were, maybe 4-6, each one with a purpose, and very enjoyable. Novella's bright, large and well organized work space for the sewing staff is an inviting place. I bet they have to wash their hands a lot...working with all shades of white.

...till finally...
Slowly, as the fit was perfected, the dress seemed to recede, and  the person wearing the dress came into focus. Clear as mud? The dress was not wearing my daughter, it was my daughter who was framed by the dress.

...it's "the dress!"
Carol's careful work produced a dream of a dress that fit perfectly, was comfortable to wear, and moved effortlessly with my daughter's body - almost like a 2nd skin - throughout her whole wedding day.  

I am so appreciative of people who take pride in their skills and their work. The alterations experience with Carol Chu was special and will forever be part of our happy wedding memories.


From the ceremony, to dancing, to hands up, the dress fit so well, that 
it moved like a 2nd skin throughout the whole event.


Creative Finishing touches...
As the mother of the bride, the whole alterations process was unexpectedly magical and inspiring. After 20+ years, I've taken up sewing again!

I'd never have imagined that my daughter's wedding dress experience would bring me back to a former hobby. 

And it's a whole new world! All the new stuff...sergers, stretch fabrics, gorgeous tone on tone cottons...YouTube tutorials...sewing blogs...I digress...


It fit so well, I bet the bride could have
cart-wheeled down the aisle!

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