Saturday, March 1, 2014

Threads: From Wedding Dress to Rehearsal Dinner Dress

Quote du Jour
    Fashion is not something that exists in dresses only. Fashion is in the sky, 
    in the streets, fashion has to do with ideas, the way we live, what's happening.
                                                                                            ~ Coco Channel
What a special joy to re-design such a dress!
From wedding gown to rehearsal dinner dress

Raising our daughters to know who they are and what makes them happy whole people, to be positive, contributing members of their generation...it only makes sense that they get to choose their own wedding dress, duh!

So, how cool is it, that some daughters are interested in using elements of their own mother's wedding dress for their rehearsal dinner dress. Threads of tradition, honor, love...it's all there...along with some happy discoveries!

The story of UpCycling my own wedding dress into my daughter's rehearsal dinner dress is shared in my blog, titled:
Upcycling at its Best: A Story of a Special Dress

A Dress Tells Its Story
My daughter's dear friend is getting married! She's given me the pleasure of remaking her mother's wedding dress - her mother is my friend, too - into her rehearsal dinner dress.

Coco Channel was right

The style reflects what was happening...
I love the design of this dress. It has a gossamer lightness and happiness to it. Perfect for exchanging solemn vows, it has a joy that makes me think the bride, and her groom, must have twirled around in it more than a few times! 


It was a time of granny-gowns, of the Free Speech Movement and Vietnam protests, when we dreamed of saying our vows while barefoot in a meadow blooming with wildflowers... This dress - beautifully - brings to my mind the best of its day. 

Basic description 
lined, floor length dress, with close-fitting bodice, raised waist, flared skirt and back zipper, long sleeves and trimmed with lace, there are only 2 darts; a clue of the designer's excellent skills.
       This lovely wedding gown tells a story, its narrative 
       revealed through its design and skillful construction.

The sun lights up the design
Preparing to photograph the dress - a visual tool to help me with re-positioning the lace and to match sewing techniques - we hung it in a doorway to take advantage of natural light from a window behind it. Then, pop! The subtle design became apparent.

Note the beautiful placement of the lace, especially the way the lace winds around the sleeves. 

Princess lines...
Generally, a dress with princess lines is closely fitted with parallel seams that run from the bust down the length of the dress, to the hem.

...but not a traditional princess!
In the photo to the left, notice how the princess lines begin as vertical placement of lace on the darts of the bodice, then turn into pleats where the bodice meets the skirt. The pleats then continue the princess lines, that gradually blur into the skirt, down to the hem. The skirt is nearly a full circle...with only one seam, centered on the back.

This gown was designed by someone who knew how to use non-traditional techniques to create a princess style, then fit, and finally skilfully construct a dress.

The Story is in the Seams
It isn't until close examination, that the dress provides a snapshot of the way clothes were constructed when the dress was made and worn 40+ years ago.

Unions: Turning the dress inside out, reveals a label we'd find in most ready to wear clothes...well 4 decades ago. I haven't seen an ILGWU label - International Ladies Garment Workers Union - in ages.

#1 Economics, patriotism, vanity, construction skill: it's in the seams!

Size: Look at the size label. It's a misses size 15/16...well 40 years ago it was a 15/16. Today it's probably a size 4 or 6.

Mind you, the dress still measures the same. Clever manufacturers, creating a term "Vanity Sizing," lowered the size designation, that is, gave the size a smaller number, to help us feel that we're skinnier than we we really know we are...

I've always heard that Marilyn Monroe was a size 16. Well, today, she may have been a size 4!


Zipper Placement: Not centered in the seam, that is, the fabric on the label side of the zipper is 1/2 inch wider than the seam allowance on the right. This probably means nothing to most folks, but it jumps out at me. This is how I learned to install a zipper. But gradually, over the years, this changed. Zippers are now centered in the seam. And it's difficult to center one correctly, at least for moi.

Finishing Techniques: My needle graphic, in photo #1, points to how the seam was "finished," meaning the edge of the fabric was turned under, then machine-stitched to prevent unraveling. 

#2 The needle graphic points to a hand stitching 
technique that tacks, then secures the seam in      
place.
Hand Stitching: Though difficult to see in photo #2, my needle graphic points to a hand-stitching technique that tacks, then secures the armhole seam in place

Strap Holder: For the comfort of the wearer, a snap loop conceals bra straps. 

A dress beautifully...Unfinished!
This dress's story is not over. Now that its story has been read - and its wearer has raised a truly lovely daughter - it's ready for editing for its next chapter. This wedding gown is soon to be a rehearsal dinner dress!

Themes in the next chapter of this dress's story include using today's tech-tools used to bring this dress into 2014, stretching, resourcefulness, preserving the elements of the design while making sure that today's wearer feels comfortable and beautiful, including threads of love, happiness, blah blah blah...so, stay tuned! 



Don't worry about size. Go for fit!

2 comments:

  1. Please Hilma, include a picture of the dress when it is finished. I mean RE-finished, I guess. I want to see it!

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  2. The dress is now all taken apart, and I can't wait for the first fitting, I'll blog about it at least one more time...with photos!

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